Explore the Utrecht Learning Center, a place where both novice and professional artists can find expert tips and instructions for using artist paints, artist brushes, artist canvas, watercolor supplies, art supply buying guides and more. Discover featured artists and their work, learn about the upcoming art contests, the newest artist materials and events we will be hosting or attending.

Art & Ed
Tips & Instructions
Artist Spotlight
 
Art & Ed:
Adding a Hand Touch to Digital Prints

Tips & Instructions:
Creating a Hand-Torn Deckle Edge

Artist Spotlight:
Jody Dole


  About Utrecht

In 1949 Utrecht Art Supplies set out to provide artists with the finest Artist Canvas, Linen, Acrylics, and Artist Oil Paints available. Now, over 50 years later, our comprehensive art supplies catalog not only provides Paints, Canvas and Linen but over 15,000 professional quality art materials and supplies for artists in every discipline.



Art & Ed
The New Studio - The Art of Painted Finishes

The New Studio for the Art of Painted Finishes, based in Manhattan, is a non-profit organization committed to preserving and adapting the “faux” painting techniques of previous centuries and to reproducing, in paint, the precious materials that were used in the past but are no longer available. The New Studio was founded by a group of artisan/teachers united by their love for the art of painted finishes and by their concern that many decorative painting techniques of the past would be lost to future generations. The aim of The New Studio is to train a new generation of artisans who will take this beautiful art form into the future.

An integral part of the studio’s work is adapting the old techniques to modern products and making the process more efficient without losing the quality of the work. Decorative “faux” finishes taught at The New Studio include gilding, marbles, stone such as Lapis Lazuli, country finishes, milk paint, pen work, tortoise shell, Asian finishes and many more. Each decorative finish that is taught is placed within the relevant historical context with an explanation of where and when it was used and what material was originally part of the process.


One of The New Studio’s primary goals is to create an environment similar to the old artists’ “atelier”, a community of people working on group projects or individually. With this system, knowledge is shared and it is possible to brainstorm through any problems. Artisans can meet in a bright, comfortable and relaxing atmosphere free from the interruptions of everyday life and can become part of a community offering the companionship and support of people with similar interests.

 

Examples of work from The New Studio: (click image for detailed view)

 

 Tortoise Shell Finish

 

 Milk Paint Technique

 

 Distressed Painted Finish 

 

 Gilding (on frame)

 

 Breccia Marble Finish

 

 Pen Work

 


To learn more about The New Studio please visit their website: www.thenewstudiony.com




Artist Spotlight
Bruce Waldman - Printmaker & Illustrator

Bruce Waldman exhibits extensively in New York City and beyond. He has been teaching at the School of Visual Arts since 1978, is a board member of the Printmaking Workshop, and a Director of The New York Society of Etchers. His prints are in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, The Library of Congress, Smithsonion Institute, Washington DC, the Hackley Museum of Art in Michigan, the Housatonic Museum of Art in Connecticut, and the New York Transit Museum.

 

Mr Waldman illustrated the cover for the 1990 national best seller "Iron John", by Robert Bly, along with the cover monoprint for "Primate Behavior" the 1997 finalist for the National Book Award for Poetry by Sara Lindsey, and won the Silver Medal in the Book category for the 45th annual of The Society of Illustrators in 2004.

 

Examples of Bruce's Work: (click image for larger view)

 

 "Confrontation" - Monoprint

 

 "Old and Young" - Monoprint

 

 "Horse Race" - Monoprint

 

 " Parent Oval" - Etching

 

See more of Bruce's work on his website.




Artist Spotlight
Tom Hamil

Tom was born in New York and raised primarily in California.  After attending the US Naval Academy in Annapolis, he returned to California to begin his formal art training at the California School of Fine Arts in San Francisco (now named the San Francisco Art Institute).  He completed his education at the University of Washington with a Master of Arts degree and a Doctorate of Philosophy in Fine Arts and Education. 

His first solo exhibition was held in 1956.  And over the last half century he has participated in numerous one man shows, group shows, and has been represented by galleries in the US and Mexico.  His works have been exhibited in over 25 cities.

 

In addition to his painting, this prolific artist has been commissioned to paint murals, illustrate children’s books, and worked in a variety of film and multi-medial formats.  Listed among his many awards and honors are a Ford Foundation Fellowship, an Award of Excellence from the American Graphics Society and the First Peace Prize in Brussels Belgium.  He has also found time to write articles for various professional publications. 

 

Hamil says about himself, “I am a man who paints.  Colors are the notes with which I play my music--honky-tonk, jazz, blues, salsa, classical--expressing the rituals, funerals, fiestas, carnivals, in this, the circus of my life.  I do not paint what I see, merely; I paint who I am.”

 

Currently, Hamil divides his time between his studios in Zirahuen, Michoacan, Mexico and Truth or Consequences, New Mexico.

 

Examples of Tom's Work: (click image to see a larger view)

 

 "Fiesta Del Cristo Rey" - 2' x 3' Oil on Hardboard

 

 "Golden Dragon Dancing" - 2' x 2' Oil on Hardboard

 

 "Fiesta in Tzintzuntza" - 2' x 4' Oil on Hardboard

 

 "Golgotha IX" - 3' x 2' Oil on Hardboard

 

 "Red Light" 2' x 4' - Oil on Hardboard




Artist Spotlight
Mikel Glass

Ideally, painting for me is a vehicle for exploring the subconscious mind, using objects and people symbolically and metaphorically as visual medium. Irony and humor are welcomed byproducts of this process. An artist's job is to interpret the world around himself. By focusing one's view on things of significance, though often unknown, interest or attraction the process becomes one of psychic exploration. I subscribe to the idea of using art to explore one's inner workings, yet as a realist I also believe that those emotions can be conveyed using recognizable form.

Embracing the forces of chance and free association drives a lot of what I do. So although a specific idea or event might trigger the motivation for a painting I often feel detached from the process of constructing its composition. I try to let my "gut" dictate the contents and placement of elements in a set up for a painting. I rarely alter the form that the assemblage takes because I like the idea of ceding control of things to fate. It is not until a set up for a painting changes itself (a piece of fruit ripens and falls, a model shifts, the light changes, etc.) that I am forced to make a conscious decision. This is useful as it serves as a check against what could otherwise become a blind meandering. My friend, the gifted painter John Morra, thinks that, like the Dadaists and Surrealists, I fear the realm of the obvious which has consequently forced me to divide into two personalities when working. First is the Zen artist who comes up with the ideas and second is the craftsman who paints them.

This can explain the apparent contradiction between the deliberateness of the appearance of my work and its subconscious construction. The truth is that my upbringing, schooling, art education and current home life have all been fairly traditional and have shaped my views about what I think my paintings should look like. Where things take a turn is that I try not to intellectualize what I am doing as I feel to do so inhibits the free flow of ideas, thus closing the doorway to the subconscious

By considering the painters I admire the apparent contradiction is further resolved. For me, painting achieved its apex as a craft through the hands of Rubens and Rembrandt. And while I find their subject matter a little boring I can stand in front of any painting they've done for hours. Content-wise, I feel a far greater kinship with the Freudian inspired artists that modernism has unleashed.

The only risk inherent in my process is that an idea I pursue may not work as a painting. The greatest potential benefit is that something interesting and evocative emerges from the canvas. And of course the ultimate personal goal is to have a record of my reaction to the people, things and events that form the world around me.

Examples of Mikel's Work: (click image for a larger view)

 "Lone Tree" c.1998 - 28" x 44"

 "Mixed Pears III" c.2002 - 8" x 10"

 "Abraham" c.1998 - 20" x 16"

See more of Mikel's work at his website: mikelglass.com




Tips & Instructions
Using Artists Materials Safely

Simple Safety Measures - A helpful list of methods and best practices you should employ in your studio.

 

Avoid Overuse and Misapplication of Solvents.

Solvents are common ingredients in many art supplies, allowing quick, easy application of a broad category of substances, with fast evaporation that allows rapid overpainting and no residue to spoil a varnish or paint layer. The fact that solvents offer a cheap, easy way to dissolve, thin and rinse just about anything means that they are used much more often than necessary in the studio. The quick evaporation rate means the lost substance enters the air as vapor; the more you use, the denser the fumes. Just as it can be easy to overuse solvents and build up an unhealthy exposure level, it’s simple to limit the amount you use, and avoid solvents for tasks where they aren’t really needed.

 

Rinsing Brushes

At the painting station, relatively little thinner is needed to rinse color from brushes.  As a bonus, the same practices that make it possible to use less solvent while painting will also lengthen the life of brushes. To keep a small amount of solvent clean for a long time, scrupulously squeeze excess paint from the brush with a rag before dipping into the rinse. Use a Silicoil tank to gently clean brushes and keep sediment separate from your bristles.

 

Turpenoid Natural is an excellent brush rinse with no harmful fumes; its slow rate of evaporation means that it can be left uncovered with no worry, and it acts as a conditioner for brush hairs. Brushes should be wiped with the rag to remove excess Turpenoid Natural before resuming painting. Artist’s grade odorless mineral spirits can be used as a rinse, as well.

 

Pure gum spirits of turpentine should be avoided as a brush cleaner. Its high evaporation rate gives no benefit in this application, and its lower permissible exposure level compared to mineral spirits means it shouldn’t be left uncovered for as long as would be needed for brush rinsing.

 

Thinning Paint

As a solvent component for painting mediums, or as a thinner alone, artists’ grade odorless mineral spirits is an excellent choice. Its low evaporation rate keeps fumes down, and its relatively high flash point makes it a much lower fire risk in the studio.

 

During Painting

The technique responsible for creating highest concentrations of fumes is the application of a solvent wash underpainting or imprimatura in the first session of a painting. Finding alternatives to this technique will dramatically cut exposure to vapors. Try diluting paint less, and instead rely on mechanical force to spread paint. Use stiff bright brushes to apply a thin all-over coating of the color of choice, and try wiping out the underpainting with clean cotton rags (not the same one used for wiping brushes).  Over-dilution of oil paint with thinner scrubs away the vehicle that’s necessary to bind pigment to your canvas, so correcting this practice will also enhance the longevity of your art.

 

Gum spirits of turpentine produces a large volume of vapors and can produce allergic sensitivity, so it’s a good idea to save it for what it does best- making and diluting varnish. Using turpentine to rinse brushes and thin colors would be kind of like using drain cleaner to wash your windows- it might get them clean, but the special handling necessary just isn’t worth the effort.

 

Use Genuine Artist’s Grade Materials and Supplies

In a college art studio, you can find almost anything being used to make art: house paint, drywall compound, caulking, wallpaper paste, and any number of salvaged scraps of unknown origin. In the spirit of experimentation, when you don’t expect to keep the finished piece, don’t care if it doesn’t last, and would never charge money for it, anything goes. However, many artists would never give up the benefits and assurances behind genuine artists’ grade supplies. Generally, real art materials cost less than substitutes, perform infinitely better and carry a wealth of information to help use them safely and effectively. Any artist who has had to work next to someone with a smelly, generic can of “paint thinner” as their sole medium and rinse knows why it’s a good idea not to substitute.

 

Schools and art organizations concerned with providing a healthy work environment should consider recommending specific, trusted brands of supplies, or providing a choice brand of thinner as part of a lab fee. A work-study or volunteer can act as “lab tech” for the day, distributing measured amounts of solvents at the start of class, and monitoring disposal afterward, along with checking that everyone adheres to the prescribed supply list.

 

Store Materials Safely

Containers should be closed when not in use, and excess material should be cleaned off the outside of containers. This commonsense step prevents getting paint and mediums on skin and clothes and preserves unused supplies. Keeping threads on the tops of tubes free from excess paint makes lids fit better and prevents leaks and spills.

 

Store art supplies in the correct temperature range according to package guidelines. Keep solvents away from open flames.

 

Dispose of Waste Correctly

At the end of a painting session, exhausted thinner should never be poured down a drain; this is an explosion hazard, and is harmful to the environment. It’s unnecessary to discard solvents after a single use. Keep a large glass or clear, solvent-proof plastic jar for dumping used mineral spirits. When sediments settle out, the clear liquid can be poured off for re-use. When a large plug of sediment forms, find out the collection schedule in your area for drop-off of hazardous waste, and allow for proper disposal. (The same rule applies to aerosol cans.)

 

Oily rags can build up sufficient heat through oxidation to combust. This applies to any oil, even cooking oil. A foot-pedal can with lid should be used to store used rags for disposal. Water should be present in the can to saturate rags. Empty trash every day.

 

Invest in Protective Equipment

Depending on the scale of activities in the studio and the nature of materials used, special equipment may be necessary to handle certain tasks safely. For handling dry pigments, plaster, stone and any other particulates, dust filter masks are advisable; a powerful fan blowing away dust is useful when working outdoors.

 

Rubber gloves should be kept in the studio for handling substances that should not come in contact with skin. Although some artists wear gloves while painting, others opt for barrier cream, which is a waxy lotion that blocks absorption through skin.

 

Goggles are essential eye protection when using tools of all kinds, including hammers, staple guns, framing joiners and fitting tools.

 

 




Art & Ed
A Glossary of Painting Terminology

Here is a handy list of definitions of terms you will come across as you explore the world of fine art painting.  Print this out and keep it handy - it's a invaluable reference.

 

Archival: Suitable for use in creation or care of artifacts of potential or actual antique value; likely to resist natural deterioration when used according to sound practices

 

Binder: A substance that allows pigment to adhere to a surface

 

Fat over Lean: The principle in oil painting that suggests each layer of paint should contain more oil than the one beneath. Awareness of this concept helps ensure permanence.

 

Drier: Metallic salts which, when mixed with a drying oil speed oxidation and reduce drying time (Also called “siccatives”)

 

Drying Oil: An oil which solidifies through oxidation to produce a film

 

Emulsion: A mixture of fatty substances and water achieved through a third substance (an emulsifier) which attaches dissimilarly charged molecules that would normally not mix

 

Fresco: Painting in fresh plaster with pigments diluted with water; the curing plaster locks pigment permanently into surface

 

Glazing/Glazes: The application of a transparent, darker color over a lighter underpainting; adding color transparently

 

Ground/Painting Grounds: A properly prepared surface, ready to accept paint. Usually consists of sizing and priming, but can also include a tone.

 

Imprimatura: A thin veil of lean paint applied over a ground in the very earliest stages of painting

 

Megilp (Meguilp, Macgelp): An oil jelly medium popular in the 18th and 19th century; made by mixing “black oil” (linseed oil cooked with lead) and mastic varnish; considered by many modern technical experts to be risky and unsuitable for permanent painting. Gamblin manufactures a “Neo-megilp” unrelated to the original, but intended to approximate the working properties of the historic medium.

 

Medium: Category of material in which an artist works; can also refer to an additive mixture used to modify the properties of artists’ colors.

 

Permanent: Retaining the same color and physical properties many years into the future

 

Pigment/Pigments: a substance of specific color which, when processed by grinding into small particles can impart color to a mixture. Pigment particles should not chemically react with the medium into which they are mixed, nor should they dissolve into solution, instead remaining physically distinct from the vehicle, as bricks are distinct from mortar.

 

Priming: A preparation that allows good sticking power for paint, and a consistent surface free of irregularities

 

Scumbling: Applying lighter, semi-translucent color over a darker underpainting (related to glazing)

 

Sizing: A starch or glue that stiffens fibers and isolates them from direct contact with colors

 

Stabilizer: an additive that preserves good working properties and prevents undesirable changes in paint during storage

 

Stable: Remaining unchanged, in the finished state intended by the artist

 

Support/Supports: That which gives physical structure for artist’s colors- canvas, paper, panel

 

Thinner: A liquid for diluting colors that will evaporate completely, leaving no residue.

 

Varnish: A clear, glossy protective coating created by dissolving a resinous substance in a solvent

 

Vehicle: The component of paint that allows pigment to be applied to a surface; imparts workability and fluidity (the vehicle can also be the binder, though this is not necessarily so)




Tips & Instructions
How To - Decorative Surface Techniques

The decorative arts have always included techniques for giving interesting surfaces to common materials. Whether mimicking a precious substance, imitating the patina of great age or simply using paints to the best advantage, art materials can give glamour and richness to otherwise ordinary objects and surfaces.

 

Using acrylic paint for wall decoration.

 

Artists’ acrylics offer the broadest range of possibilities for creating interesting surfaces. Their rapid drying rate, longevity and good sticking power combined with an impressive assortment of colors and mediums available make acrylics the best choice for most decorative processes. Acrylic gesso can prepare walls, wood, cloth and bisque-fired ceramic to accept paint; really, any porous surface will take a gesso layer. While wet, inclusions can be pressed into gesso for texture or decorative effect- old postcards, leaves, scraps of cloth, for example. If bright white gesso is not appropriate for the project, acrylic matte medium is a clear coating that will work for the same purpose, and will seal inclusions for later overpainting.

 

Artists’ acrylics offer the broadest range of possibilities for creating interesting surfaces. Their rapid drying rate, longevity and good sticking power combined with an impressive assortment of colors and mediums available make acrylics the best choice for most decorative processes. Acrylic gesso can prepare walls, wood, cloth and bisque-fired ceramic to accept paint; really, any porous surface will take a gesso layer. While wet, inclusions can be pressed into gesso for texture or decorative effect- old postcards, leaves, scraps of cloth, for example. If bright white gesso is not appropriate for the project, acrylic matte medium is a clear coating that will work for the same purpose, and will seal inclusions for later overpainting.

 

Glazing techniques with acrylic paints work much faster than with oil-based compounds. Acrylic Matte and Gloss Mediums mixed with a tiny amount of color, modified with a small amount of retarder gel to slow drying, can be applied over a dry layer of color for an illusion of depth. Still-wet glazes can be manipulated by wiping with a rag or rubber graining comb for dramatic effects. Milky, slightly opaque glazes over darker hues create color effects impossible to achieve in single layers.

 

Textures created with Acrylic Modeling Paste and Pumice Medium can evoke the look of ancient fresco. These can be mixed with paint or gesso, or applied alone and painted over. Glazes applied over deep textures sink into crevices and highlight peaks. Try glazing over a pumice-gesso mixture, and wipe away the half-dry glaze with a damp sponge leaving only the color in the cracks and holes.

 

For successful decorative surface techniques, practice on a small test patch before committing to a large project- that way, your technique at the beginning of the project will already be somewhat rehearsed, and can look the same from start to finish. Generally, all these techniques work better if executed quickly and deliberately, rather than getting bogged down in small areas.

 

Decorating Frames and Furniture with Paint.

 

Plain wood frames and old furniture can be custom-finished with a number of processes.  Utrecht’s natural ash picture frames are unsealed, bare wood that is ready to accept paint. After removing glass and backing, lightly sand the wood frame. Previously-finished furniture should be sanded lightly to help paint stick. After sanding, the object can be finished according to the following techniques.

 

Oil Stain (bare wood only)

 

1. Dilute Utrecht Oil Colors (Raw Umber or Burnt Sienna) with odorless mineral spirits to a thin, milky consistency.

2. On a covered surface in a well-ventilated area, apply a thin coat of paint using a 1 inch bristle brush.

3. Allow to set until solvents have evaporated, about 1 hour.

4. Rub excess off with rags. Allow to dry several days.

5. Seal with Utrecht Clear Acrylic Spray.

 

Antique Gold Surfaces

 

1. Dilute Utrecht Permanent Gold Acrylic with water to a thick cream consistency.

2. On a covered surface, apply color thinly to frame using a 1 inch soft nylon brush, making sure to use long strokes  parallel  with the grain of wood. Allow to dry several hours.

3. Finish by applying an even coat of Utrecht Burnt Umber Oil Color using a rag. Rub off excess with a clean rag, leaving just enough to deepen color.

4. Allow to dry 1 week, then seal with Utrecht Clear Acrylic Spray.

5. (Variations: For an Italian Gilt Gesso look, first apply Utrecht Acrylic Gesso beneath gold acrylic, and finish as before; substitute Utrecht Permanent Silver for gold, and finish with Payne’s Gray Oil in place of Umber for an antique pewter effect; for a lighter, faster drying burnt umber, dilute with a small amount of Utrecht Alkyd Glazing Medium.)

 

Shabby Bohemian Surfaces

 

1. Apply Utrecht Acrylic Gesso in a thick coat; allow to dry, and sand smooth.

2. Drybrush a thin application of Utrecht Unbleached Titanium Acrylic using a stiff bristle brush, leaving a good deal of gesso visible. Allow to dry.

3. Mix a glaze of Utrecht Acrylic Matte Medium and a small amount of Chromium Oxide Green Acrylic.

4. Apply an even coating to entire surface; wipe thin at edges and corners. Allow to dry.

5. Seal with Utrecht Gloss Acrylic Spray.

6. (Variations: Substitute Utrecht Titanium White Acrylic for green in the glaze to achieve a lighter color.)

 

Old Venetian Surfaces

 

1. Completely cover with Utrecht Venetian Red Acrylic. Allow to dry completely.

2. Sand smooth with extra fine sandpaper.

3. Dilute Utrecht Permanent Gold Acrylic to a thin cream consistency. Apply an even coat of gold, allowing a small amount of red to show through. Allow to dry.

4. Finish by rubbing on an extra-thin coat of Utrecht Raw Umber Oil Color using a rag.

5. Buff off excess with a clean rag.

6. Allow to dry 1 week, and seal with Utrecht Clear Acrylic Spray.

 

Inventing variations of the suggested techniques is an enjoyable way to learn new techniques and create decorative objects that look great with your paintings.  Alternating opaque and transparent applications and layering complementary colors in glazes are guiding principles that can be the basis for hundreds of distinct looks.

 

 





*Utrecht Art Supplies is not responsible for any damage to personal property that may result from use of any of the above articles. These documents are intended for reference only.