F.A.Q.s: Brushes

• What's the best way to clean my brushes?
  
• I let paint dry in my brushes. Can I fix this, or do I need to get all new brushes?
  
• Should I select long or short handled brushes?
  
• Are natural or synthetic brushes better?
  

Q: What's the best way to clean my brushes?
A: Maintain your brushes by wiping excess paint with a cloth rag, then rinse in mineral spirits or non-toxic, citrus-based brush cleaner for oils, or water for acrylics and watercolors. Wash brushes after each use with soap and water, taking care to squeeze paint residue from the ferrule (the metal band holding the bristles to the handle). Buildup in the ferrule causes loss of brush hairs from the abrasive action of pigment particles, which are like tiny, jagged rocks. Oil painters in particular can benefit from the use of a brush soap, vegetable oil-based soaps with special ingredients to remove varnish resins and dry paint.

Q: I let paint dry in my brushes. Can I fix this, or do I need to get all new brushes?
A: Brushes that have been allowed to dry with paint on them will never be like new again, but sometimes they can be restored to a useful state. Brush soaps and cleaners can often remove dry oil paint, as can citrus-based thinners. A soak overnight may be necessary to soften all residue. Plugs of dry paint may require trimming back the ferrule; a small steel file can be used to score around the ferrule 1/8” down from the bristles; use needle nose pliers to peel away the trimmed excess metal, exposing the dry paint plug. Soak overnight in Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer (Item No: 27337) or citrus solvent, followed by washing with brush soap. Use a toothbrush to remove as much residue as possible. Back to Top.

Q: Should I select long or short handled brushes?
A: Generally, for painting at the easel long handled brushes are best; they allow full movement of the arm and permit some distance from the work. For watercolor and gouache techniques where the brush is held very close to the work, short handled brushes are best. However, there is no reason not to try something different; short-handled brushes are often useful for detail work in oils or acrylics and long-handled brushes are good for broad, gestural marks in watercolor. Back to Top.

Q: Are natural or synthetic brushes better?
A: There is a wide range of types and qualities of brushes in both categories. Depending on the fiber and the intended use, both natural and synthetic brushes have advantages. Natural bristle brushes are excellent for oils; however, hog bristle tends to soften in water, so synthetics are often preferred for acrylics. Kolinsky brushes are regarded as the best for watercolors and fluid oil glazing techniques; their strength and sensitivity to the hand as well as superior paint release make them a top choice for many artists, but they do cost a bit more than other varieties. The best nylon brushes offer much the same performance as good natural brushes for watercolors and will always be superior to the cheapest natural hair varieties. Not all synthetics are equally resistant to solvents, however, so when selecting brushes for oil painting it's important to consider the manufacturer's suggested use. Back to Top.

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